To Mukluk Annie's - #52-09

June 24, 2005 (Fri)
McDonald Campground, Muncho Lake PP #3 dry $14.00c dry A-

Fort Nelson, BC to Muncho Lake, BC (171 miles today/4727 total) Q017042

We drove into the spectacular Northern Canadian Rockies today. The first few miles were a continuation of the rolling forested hills of the last few days. Then we began to climb and the hills became magnificent rock gray mountains. They were so close sometimes that it seemed we could reach out and touch them.

We took off before breakfast (5:00 51°) in hopes of seeing more wildlife than we did yesterday but it wasn't to be. There was a deer a few miles north of the campground but it wasn't until we were high in the mountains that we saw anything of interest. We were on the steep winding cliff road down Stone Mountain when we saw something on the road up ahead. It turned out to be a herd of stone sheep - 8 or 9 adults and 3 or 4 young kids. The only male had big curling horns like those of the Big Horn sheep but smaller. Later on we saw another even larger herd on the steep road cut. They seemed not to care that they walking on 45° loose gravel.

We had planned to spend the next two nights at J&H Wilderness Resort campground but when we got there - we were the first to arrive - we found that we couldn't get sites by the lake and that a large number of units (a caravan) was expected later on in the day. We checked out a provincial park a mile or so south and found there were several lakeside sites available so we drove a few miles further south to intercept the others to discuss our options. We, except Ed and Kathy, decided to stay in the provincial park. It really is beautiful! The lake is a few feet out our back door and one of those gray mountains looms over us in front. If the mosquitoes would go away, it would be perfect. Ed and Kathy didn't think that they could get their big rig into these sites so chose to go to J&H Wilderness Resort.
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June 25, 2005 (Sat)
McDonald Campground, Muncho Lake PP (2)

Muncho Lake, British Columbia has a population of 29 people and three lodges, gas stations, restaurants, cafes and campgrounds spread along the 7 mile eastern shore of Muncho Lake. (There must be some multi-tasking going on!) That gives you some idea of the desolation up here. And the the availability of exciting things to do.

This morning the 8 of us piled into the 2 toads and headed north to Laird River Provincial Park where there are hot sulfur springs. The changing rooms were thick with mosquitoes so we didn't waste any time in them. Instead, we cooked our bodies, and mosquito bites, for 20 minutes or so in the naturally hot sulfur water. It smelled oddly - and faintly - like rotten eggs (as sulfur does) but the soak was wonderful. The water temperature ranged from 108° to 126°. It was generally hotter toward the source but there were areas of hot through out. And those little pools were HOT!

After lunch we sat around reading, knitting, napping, and generally enjoying being in this beautiful park. In the late afternoon we all got together to plan our next couple of weeks - we'll be pretty much doing our own thing for a few days - and Bob celebrated Holy Eucharist for us. And what a beautiful place to worship!!
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June 26, 2005 (Sun)
Downtown R.V. Park, Watson Lake, YT #54 w/e/s $24.15d C+

Muncho Lake, BC to Watson Lake, YT (264/4892 miles) Q017206

It was 41° and a clear beautiful morning as we turned onto the Alaska Highway and headed north again. Bob & Pat and Chip & Kim had already left and their campsites already reoccupied at 6:00am. We stopped for gas at J&H Wilderness Resort where Ed & Kathy were camped. We couldn't get gas - it was closed until 8:00 - but we did see Ed and Kathy out walking their dogs. So instead of paying $1.09/liter CAN ($3.31/gal US) we had to pay $1.19/liter ($3.61/gal US) at a station in the sticks. (Here it's $1.04/liter less a 4% discount for camping here. Or $2.49/gal US) Now that's good planning!

Our excitement for the day, other than the continuing beauty of the landscape, was to see a Grizzly Bear mom and her three cubs. We pulled over to take some pictures but did not get out of Q. Grizzly Bears are VERY dangerous - especially with young ones around! Ed and Kathy came along about then and we traveled the rest of the way here with them. The roads were pretty good except for a 7 mile section about thirty miles from Muncho Lake.

When we got here we learned that Bob and Pat had fuel pump problems and may be held up a few days. They are camping in their RV at the garage next door. Chip and Kim didn't like the looks of the campground (little more than a parking lot) so went on. We are parked (that is the only name for it) with full hookups about 6 feet from Ed and Kathy. The important things are here though - a laundry, a sewer, a good shower, and fresh water - all which we desperately needed.

After settling in we all walked over to the Northern Lights Center where we saw a wonderful planetarium show about the search for extra terrestrials and another about the northern lights in Yukon - Watson Lake is in Yukon Territory (YT).

On the way back we visited the world famous "Sign Forest". This is where people from all over the world have nailed signs (their names or the name of their home town or traveling group) on poles erected by the town authorities. There are hundreds of poles and thousands of signs. And more are added every day. Tonight we went to a BBQ in the "Mess Tent" - the campground restaurant literally in a tent - and ate heartily. Dominos at 8:00.
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June 27, 2005 (Mon)
Mukluk Annie's Campground dry free

Watson Lake, YT to Teslin, YT (169/5061 miles) Q017375

It was still light when we went to bed last night at 10:30 and light again at 4:00 when we woke up. It never does get completely dark. Strange!

It was 59.2° when we got off at about 7:40 but dropped to 50° as we drove north. The graffiti of choice appears to be rock writing. On the banks of the cuts all along the highway people have written their names, symbols, or expressions by placing fist sized rocks in rows to form letters or drawings. It goes on for miles. The snow capped Cassiar Mountains were visible throughout most of the trip, first ahead and then to the south. At the Continental Divide Rest & Cafe we fell to the temptation of cinnamon buns advertised for each establishment along the way. A quick nuke in the microwave did wonders to a bun baked yesterday or the day before.

Yesterday we drove over 30 miles before we saw the first vehicle on the road. Today we were amongst several groups of RVs who would pass us one after another then fill up the pullouts to sightsee then have to pass us again. This went on most of the way. Most unnerving and frustrating! Tomorrow we'll get an earlier start - get out ahead of them.

Mukluk Annie's, a restaurant, offers free camping - by the lake and quite nice it turns out (except for the mosquitoes) - with the only obligation a moral one, to buy a meal (or two) in the restaurant. The baked salmon, prepared by Mukluk Chuck, was delicious, though expensive. After lunch we went with Ed and Kathy, in their toad, to the Teslin Tlingit Heritage Center. There was a small but interesting display of Tlingit Indian art and culture and an informative film about the effect of the mid 1900s intrusion of white culture.

This evening a quick storm came up but we didn't call off the domino game.